Has fashion lost its sex appeal?
As is customary, the Louis Vuitton presentation was the last of the seasonal runway shows in Paris. The global brand presented its fall 2018 collection at
the Louvre with guests entering through the I.M. Pei glass pyramid and
proceeding through the museum's stone interior. Locations in the city do not get
more rarefied and dramatic than that.
For this show, the models walked around an expansive open courtyard that was once a stable. A clear tent had been pitched overhead but the space was not
fully enclosed, and just as the spotlights came up, it began to rain, which lent
a certain urgency to the proceedings. The models walked down a wide ramp and
onto what could have been the deck of a space ship. There were fun cropped
jackets and spangly skirts but they were a significant distance from the nearest
seat. The result was that one took in the spectacle, the showmanship, but not
the construction of the clothes or the details in them.
When the show ended, designer Nicolas Ghesquiére trotted down the ramp to take his bows. The audience was dispatched into the night and into the pouring
rain. The whole experience felt efficient and organised, but vaguely sterile.
Which garment made one feel desire? Which frock sparked passion? Where was the
heat?
In the pantheon of runway shows, Vuitton's was not over-the-top. But in the scope of the current season, it was the closest any brand came to setting off
fireworks. While Paris is known for the creativity of designers and their
delight in presenting their work in a dynamic environment, intimacy has been the
byword in the fashion trade this season. Intimacy. Not sexy. Not hot. Not
passionate.
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