Despite a sudden flurry of American brands forsaking New York Fashion Week for Europe (NYexit, anyone?), there is still a lot of fresh creativity bubbling
below the surface in the States, eventually making its way onto our own shores
and shelves. After perpetually asking the question “Where is that from?”, I’ve
rounded up some of the best new American-based labels you’ll want to wear this
autumn.
Catherine Holstein established her line Khaite in 2015, debuting it exclusively at New York’s lifestyle-emporium The Line. Nineties minimalism with
Cristobal Balenciaga silhouettes, the collection is full of elevated classics;
from a perfect double-breasted jacket with padded shoulders and a nipped waist,
to perfectly cut high-waisted jeans in a classic blue wash. Khaite is going to
find its way into the wardrobe of those who want investment pieces that never go
out of fashion.
Stephanie Danan and Justin Kern founded their brand Co. in Los Angeles in 2011, well before the West Coast city became the spiritual home of
artist-cum-creatives (and I’m not talking about Hollywood types, but those who
have left the East Coast in search of sun, smoothies and a better quality of
life).
Danan was a film producer and Kern a screenwriter, a fact that runs through their ready-to-wear collections; the Noir-inspired lookbooks have filmic
narratives and moody lighting. There is an intrigue to their aesthetic that is
gaining more and more traction with very loud whispers in the industry.
Born out of the Just One Eye boutique – the LA part-gallery, part-shop, part-talent showcase, that is a retail mecca for both locals and out-of-towners
alike – the in-house label Beau Souci is designed by Paris-based Aurélie
Larrousse.
Paola Russo, the taste-making founder of Just One Eye, has given Larrousse free rein to imagine an LA-meets-Paris collection full of short skirts, hoodies,
tight leather trousers and soft tailoring. When I saw the collection for the
first time this summer, it was being worn by a lithe young French woman who
embodied the 'Parisian who summers on the West Coast' look.
I was recently introduced to Miami-based Columbian-born Silvia Tcherassi, by a Californian friend with impeccable taste; think the perfect mix of Céline and
vintage. On her recommendation, I sat up and researched, discovering that
Tcherassi established her brand way back in 1987. Her work is, however, very
contemporary with soft, undulating silhouettes and surprising re-interpretations
of silk and cotton-blend shirts.
Tcherassi adds fun details that push traditional office wear into a more interesting direction. I love her shirting with billowing sleeves built from
clever, mathematical patterns in classic blue stripes. I have a feeling her name
will be back on everyone’s lips soon enough.
Read more at:
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